The Banks Peninsula

After our great trip inland to Mount Cook we made our way east to a small town on the Banks Peninsula (south of Christchurch) called Akaroa. Having had a hectic time over the last six weeks we decided to have a few lazy days to wind down. We found a nice campsite overlooking the small harbour and town. We spent two full days here, spending our time exploring the town, reading our books, playing cards, and watching the Aussie Open. We left fully refreshed and ready to take on Christchurch!

Mount Cook National Park

We had one more stop to make before reaching Mt. Cook National Park and that was at Moeraki, where we visited the Penguin Hospital (we finally saw a Yellow-Eyed Penguin even if it did have a limp!) and the Moeraki Boulders.

The drive approaching Mount Cook was awesome. As the huge mountain loomed closer we had some great views of it with Lake Pukaki in the foreground.

The DOC campsite was basic but in idyllic surroundings - not a bad place to pitch your tent for the night! We were up early in the morning to do the popular three hour walk through the Hooker Valley to Hooker Lake at the base of Mount Cook. We had perfect clear weather and the place to ourselves. The highest peak in NZ looked absolutely stunning with the morning sunlight illuminating the snow.

In the afternoon we stopped off at the Mount John Observatory which overlooked the beautifully turquoise Lake Tekapo - not a bad place for a coffee! We then stopped briefly for a few touristy photos at the Church of the Good Shepherd before making the long journey to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula.

Dunedin & The Otago Peninsula

After a brief stop at Kaka Point we arrived in Dunedin at around lunchtime. After a bite to eat we set out to have a nosy around the city before enjoying a relaxing evening on the campsite.

The next day we headed out of the city and along to the head of the peninsula. We cut back along the High Cliff Road where we stopped off at Sandfly Bay for a walk and the chance to see some wildlife. Again, we missed the penguins (wrong time of day) but managed to see loads of lazy sea lions basking in the sun! We watched from the hide at the end of the beach for a while then made our way back up the steep dunes to the car park. After a brief stop at St. Kilda Beach and Dunedin's centre, we drove back to the campsite for a few beers.

The following morning we had a long journey ahead of us as our next destination was Mount Cook National Park. However, we decided to make one last stop in Dunedin and visit the Sports Hall of Fame which is located inside the impressive railway station. The museum, although small, was full of interesting displays, facts, figures, and memorabilia collected from New Zealand's sporting heroes - well worth the NZ$5 entry!

The Catlins

From Manapouri we headed straight for Invercargill where we took the opportunity to stock up on supplies. We then made our way to McLean Falls on the Catlins coastline where we had planned to spend a couple of days. The day after we arrived we planned to have a lazy day, but it never seems to work out as planned!

The first stop of the day was at the quirky Lost Gypsy Art Gallery. This was a brilliant collection of automata, memorabilia, and things you can press, pull or play with! From here we stopped at Tautuku Bay where we enjoyed a long walk on the golden sands of this deserted beach; unbelievable to have such a beautiful beach to ourselves!

We went back to the campsite, enjoyed a long lunch, and read our books before heading back out again for a couple more walks. First up was the 40min return to McLean Falls, followed by a walk to the Cathedral Caves. The caves can only be explored at low tide so when we arrived in the evening (at low tide) the conditions were also really good for taking a few photographs.

The next day we set off for Dunedin with plans to make a couple of stops along the way; Nugget Point and Kaka Point. At Nugget Point we made the short walk to the lighthouse where we got a great view out across the 'nuggets' as well as being able to see seals and sea lions playing on the rocks below. Unfortunately we were there at around 11am and so missed the opportunity to see the Yellow Eyed Penguins that are frequent visitors to the area.

Doubtful Sound

After an early night, we woke early for our kayak trip on the sound. We were at the office for 7.30am and had set off by 8am. To get to the remote Doubtful Sound we first had to take a 45min boat journey across Lake Manapouri before a further 40min bus journey (with hot chocolate) to Deep Cove, our departure point. We knew it was going to be a great day when as soon as we got in our kayak we were joined in the water by a friendly pod of about fifteen bottlenose dolphins!

The weather was typical for Fiordland (it rains over 260 days of the year and averages over 8m annually), so at least we got an authentic experience made all the more worthwhile by the huge number of waterfalls that are only in action after heavy rainfall. We paddled in our double kayak for almost three hours down the sound before boarding the small boat (that had gone on ahead of us) for lunch.

After lunch we kayaked for another three hours as we made our way past 'Mini Mitre' peak and down Hall Arm. It was great to experience the unbelievable surroundings and tranquility of the sound from water level, especially with the knowledge that we were the only six people on the sound and probably for miles around. For us, this 'remoteness' made it more spectacular and remarkable than the touristy and busier Milford Sound.

Milford Sound

The morning after Mount Luxmore we took our time and made our way from Te Anau to Milford Sound along the scenic Milford Road. Along the way there were loads of scenic lookouts and short walks that offered great views of the mountains and valleys.

We decided to go for the three hour walk to Lake Marian (we weren't aching too badly from the day before) and certainly weren't disappointed. It was roughly an hour walk through muddy steep-sided woodland before we arrived at the beautiful turquoise lake that was surrounded by huge daunting peaks on all sides; it was amazing! After a quick bite to eat we retraced our footsteps to the car park and continued to Milford Sound.

We got to Milford Lodge and set up camp in the early evening before enjoying a relaxed evening in the cosy lounge area. We were up early the next day, as we had booked a 2 hour cruise through the sound. The boat journey was really good and offered us an opportunity to see Mitre Peak and some of the fantastic waterfalls up close.

After the cruise we made our way back along the Milford Road towards Te Anau. We made one last stop at the end of the Routeburn Track where we completed another 3 hour walk up to Key Summit. Unfortunately the weather didn't allow us the spectacular views of Fiordland that you can usually get from the summit, but it was a nice walk and good to stretch our legs (again!)

Our final destination that day was Manapouri. We booked into a campsite and prepared for our kayaking trip through Doubtful Sound.

Te Anau & Mount Luxmore

We arrived in Te Anau early from Queenstown giving us plenty of time to set up camp, take a short walk by the lake, and explore the small town.

The next morning we were up at 6am, as we had a long day ahead of us. We had decided to walk the first section of the 'Kepler Track'; Mount Luxmore and back. The plan was to walk from the Control Gates to Luxmore Hut, but having arrived here in under half the advertised time, we decided to make for the summit. It was grey and misty as we came out of the treeline but as soon as we reached the top, at exactly midday, the sun came out and gave us some magnificent views.

It was cold on the top too (hence Jen's new Eskimo look). We didn't want to get too cold so we had a quick lunch, took a few pictures and started the descent. It wasn't until halfway back that we started to feel quite tired, and the last few kilometres were a real struggle. When we got back to the car we were shattered. We worked out how far we had walked in the nine hours since our departure and realised that it was at least 35kms (22 miles)!

We went back to the campsite and had a well deserved shower and some nice cold beers! Next stop...Milford Sound

Queenstown

After a great time in Wanaka, we headed south to Queenstown - the adrenaline capital of the world! Unfortunately, our activities budget was running low so we decided to enjoy some of the other things on offer in the town i.e. beer and burgers!

We spent the first day exploring the town to see what was on offer, then we headed back to the campsite to shower and have a few Tui's. In the evening we went back out into town for dinner (a real treat!) and indulged ourselves at the famous 'Fergburger' restaurant (thanks Ellie and Katherine for the tip!) They were the biggest and best burgers we have ever had. Joe's was called the 'Big Al' and had everything you could imagine, and everything you couldn't imagine, between two pieces of bread! Afterwards we headed to a couple of popular night spots for some locally brewed beer.

The next day we had planned a walk near Glenorchy, but due to hangovers and poor weather we decided a nice drive would suit us better! We drove along the extremely scenic road to Glenorchy and back with a spot of lunch halfway.

We left Queenstown the day after having had a good time but realising that without money to burn on activities and nightlife, the town offers little else; we were looking forward to Fiordland and some good mountain walks...

Wanaka

The first evening in Wanaka was an interesting trip to the town's unique cinema. The single screen was operated by a bloke who had to change the film reel halfway through (so we had an oldskool intermission). This wasn't a bad thing though as we got to eat home-made cookies and ice cream in our comfy sofas. The film was a bit weird but the whole experience was great fun!

Our first full day in Wanaka was a 'relaxing day'. We woke up late, had lunch on the lakeside, and took a dip in the freezing glacial lake. In the evening (because it was too hot during the day) we went for a walk.

We chose to do the Diamond Lake loop track that takes you to the top of Rocky Mountain. This was a three hour round trip which gave us brilliant views of the surrounding peaks and valleys (not to mention Lake Wanaka). It was great to do it at this time of day as the sun cast long shadows and we were the only people for miles around.

The next day we had planned a more challenging walk to the summit of nearby Mount Roy (1600m/5280 ft). It was a hard slog to the top but once we were there the views were incredible. It was another clear morning and we had a 360 deg. panoramic of Mount Aspiring and Lake Wanaka.

Having set off early, we were back in the town by 2pm to enjoy the day and rest our weary legs. Next stop Queenstown for a Fergburger!

Fox Glacier & Lake Matheson

We arrived at Fox Glacier early evening after the excellent day we had had at Franz Josef Glacier. We found a nice campsite and relaxed during the evening; the following day we were going to be busy again!

We were up at 6am as we hoped to get perfect conditions for our visit to Lake Matheson. On a clear still morning the reflections of Mount Cook and it's surrounding peaks are said to be second to none. Unfortunately (see below), it was a misty morning and the only reflections we got were of the nearest treeline. Nevertheless, it was nice to be up early and enjoy a lovely walk without anyone around.

After having a shower and packing up the tent we made our way to the terminal face of Fox Glacier. Although we didn't pay for a trip onto the ice, we walked as far as was advised and could tell that it was very different to Franz Josef, yet equally spectacular. Overall, we really enjoyed our time in the Glacier Region but it was now time to move further into the Southern Alps.

We made the long journey down to Wanaka (with a stop for bacon and eggs!) and planned to stay for three nights...

Franz Josef Glacier

We arrived early evening into the Glacier Region and headed straight into the township of Franz Josef for a briefing before our glacier hike the next morning. After, we went to the foot of the glacier for a short walk and a quick preview before making our way to the campsite to pitch our tent for the night.

We woke to a glorious day and a punctured tyre. After a little while of stressing out about what we should do we managed to get it sorted out and arranged for a lift into town for our tour onto the glacier. We got kitted out with boots, crampons and raincoats and took the bus to the start of the walk. It took an hour to walk through the valley and reach the terminal face. We then put on our crampons and began our ascent of the ice.

It was a fantastic experience to be stood on so much ice and the views were spectacular. The guide explained all about the glacier as well as creating a safe path for us to trek on glacier (this often included cutting out steps in the ice as we went along). The highlight was squeezing through a small crack in the ice where we were able to see ice that was so compacted that it appeared blue.

After our great glacier experience we did our laundry, got the car fixed ($75!) and were on our way!

Punakaiki, Pancake Rocks & Hokitika

The next couple of days were 'driving days' as we headed from the Abel Tasman down the West Coast towards the Glacier Region. However, we made a one night stop off at Punakaiki where we visited the famous Pancake Rocks and blowholes.

The blowholes only work at high tide, and only work well if there is a strong south-westerly swell. However, we got some good pictures of the sea smashing the rocks and the water spurting through the blowholes.

It was a nice place to make an overnight stop - the pub served great local ale!

The next day we continued south along the West Coast and found Hokitika. Although famed for the green stone jewellery, we enjoyed having a picnic here and looking around a fantastic fine art photography workshop.

Abel Tasman National Park

After a short stop in Nelson to pick up supplies we made our way north to Marahau - the gateway to the Abel Tasman. We enjoyed a nice evening walking along the beach before getting an early night; we had a long walk planned for the morning.

The next day we booked a water taxi to take us to Bark Bay (there are no roads) so that we could take the long walk back to Marahau (approx. 6 hours). The boat ride out gave us our first glimpses of this incredible coastline as well some of the marine life such as seals basking on the rocks.

When we arrived at Bark Bay we were amazed at how turquoise the waters were and how golden the sand was - it was unbelievable!

We followed the coastal track from Bark Bay all the way back to the town, stopping off along the way at Torrent Bay, Anchorage Bay and many other little secluded bays and coves. The views were stunning all day and we were lucky to get some excellent weather.

Marlborough Sounds

After arriving in Picton we headed north along the scenic Queen Charlotte Drive and up into the Sounds. The drive was absolutely stunning as we winded our way through the headlands. The coastline, beaches, and bays displayed some beautiful colours as the weather was perfect.

We arrived at Nikau Cove late afternoon and pitched our tent at the tiny DOC campsite. We had a lovely lazy afternoon enjoying the peace and beauty of the place. The next morning we took a quick walk down to Mistletoe Bay before heading on to Nelson and then the Abel Tasman National Park.

Wellington & Cook Strait

We arrived in Wellington the same day that we had done the walk at the base of Mt. Taranaki. It had been a long day so we decided to pitch up our tent and save any exploring for the next day. The picture below is of Wellington harbour at sunset.

After a little lie-in we took the bus into the city and headed straight for the famous Te Papa Museum. The Te Papa is New Zealand's national museum and contains a staggering number of fantastic modern exhibitions , a lot of which are interactive. We had to do it in two stints as it was massive; so we had a lunch break in the middle. Our particular favourites were the Colossal Squid (eyes as big as footballs) and Awesome Forces.

The next day we set sail from Wellington to Picton across the Cook Strait, leaving the North Island behind. It was a smooth crossing and the scenery as we approached the South Island through the Queen Charlotte Sound was amazing. We were excited about new adventures in the South Island; first stop Marlborough Sounds!

Taranaki & Egmont National Park

From the caves we headed south to Taranaki, stopping at a small village called Mokau for a well deserved night's sleep. In the morning we woke up to an horrendous storm so we packed up in the lashing rain and headed down to New Plymouth in hope of better weather.

By the afternoon it had cleared up enough to enjoy a walk along the coastal track before heading to Stratford (at the edge of Egmont National Park), where we camped for the night.

The following morning we packed up camp early and drove to Dawson Falls at the base of Mt. Taranaki (see below). Thankfully the sun was shining and we were able to do a brilliant 4 hour circular walk at the base of the mountain. The walk included stunning views of the mountain and the Taranaki Plains, as well as an 'interesting' swing bridge.

By the time we had finished our walk and had a picnic it was getting late and we had a long drive ahead of us - next stop Wellington!